Ode to Austria

Rome and home!

2011-03-13T14:56:00.000-07:00

Looking back at this blog, I posted 19 times in 2010, but that's about every six weeks. That is how long since the last post and life changes!
For my February break, I went to Rome for 5 days. I walked and walked and walked. Like Paris, there is something to discover around every corner. Loved it! I probably wouldn't in July, when it is hot and crowded, but I had a great time exploring. Went to the Vatican museums ,Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Library, cool 45 minute tour.
Since this is my Italy year, my plan was to go to Tuscany for spring break. But, Mold was discovered in my Napa house, my tenant moved out and I need to go see what's happening.
I'm not actively looking for international work at the moment. I'm looking in a lot of directions.
Who knows?!
Napa in April is sweet, looking forward to it. Tuscany, another day.

Sydney Jan 2 - 7

2011-01-30T12:47:00.000-08:00

I am in the Amora Jamison hotel in Sydney, Australia. There is a terrific thunderstorm going on. It is still warm, a breeze. Sydney is beautiful, the setting of course, and also the wonderful combination of old and new. Elegant buildings from the early 1900’s, newer sleek buildings and an unbelievable waterfront make it feel a bit like San Francisco but more dynamic. The Opera house is magnificent. I went to see a play there, “Love, Lust and What I Wore”. It was fun.

I am in Sydney, ostensibly, for business, the Search Associates Recruitment Fair. They are over 100 schools here, looking to fill positions for next year. My agenda is to see as much as I can and visit with the Barretts, and interview.

Yvonne, David and I, as well as David’s sister Lyndal, had lunch and walked in the gardens. The museum is free! There was a long line for the Terracotta warriors, so I just took a quick look at the Australian artists section. The gardens are beautiful, with miles and miles of bay coast.

I love the people here, they talk to each other. I know it is English speaking and so easier, but it is much more open, more like America than Europe. They are helpful and friendly and smile a lot. Do you think it could be the sunshine? There is a much different ethnic mix here, Aboriginal, Asian, European, New Zealand, Tasmanian. I’m enjoying the long summer days, dusk at 8:30. It is expensive! The Australian dollar and the US dollar are almost even. A glass of wine is over $10.00. I hear they get paid well here. I could live here, except it is sooo far. It really is the other side of the world, it gets colder going south.

Port Douglas Dec 26 to Jan 2, 2011

2011-01-30T03:51:00.000-08:00

Port Douglas Dec. 26

Day one –recovering from jet lag, a walk on the beach, hair cut and dinner.

27th Day two: I visited the Wildlife habitat, delightful. I got to see and photograph the natives. I love birds and the variety here is different and colorful.

I enjoyed seeing my first cassowary and then visited their habitat, Daintree Rainfortest and actually saw one cross the road with a baby. I didn’t get that picture, they were fast. People here have cockatoos in their backyards. They are all over. The bats here are huge! I watched them at dusk, circling in front of the hotel. I stayed at Mercure Treetops. It is supposed to look like the rainforest treetops. It works, sort of.

28th Day 3 Daintree Rainforest

Walk in Mossman’s Gorge, boat ride on the river, lunch in the rainforest and sighted a cassowary on the ride back!

29th Day 4 Quicksilver trip to Great Barrier Reef

Ride out to the Reef, snorkel, semisubmersible and work on the tan on the ride back.

30th Day 5 Kuranda and Skytrail over the rainforest

Even with my fear of heights, I made it. I had a sky car to myself, no one to make me nervous with movement but myself. Peaceful and beautiful.

Kuranda was a cute town with an interesting history. Delicious pies for lunch and a train ride to Cairns.

Jan 1 Day 6 Poseidon trip to Great Barrier Reef

Booked an intro dive, to try something different for New Year’s Day but I chickened out. I got suited up but panicked a bit in the water. I think I will try it again some day, but in a pool first, not open ocean. Enjoyed the snorkeling but had a rough ride home. It was the beginning of the storms that have flooded Queensland this year.

Jan 2 Fly to Syndey

Slovakia Revisited

2010-11-23T12:19:00.000-08:00

I drove back to Kotesova, Slovakia last weekend. I didn’t have time to explore last time. I figured this was my last chance before the snow to take some pictures. Below is a selection of photos from the cemetery/graveyard, I found last time. I cleared a few headstones covered with leaves, but as you can see a lot of work is needed to reclaim it. I spend about an hour there, just taking pictures and walking around.
I have written a couple of emails to:
http://www.slovak-jewish-heritage.org/
and
http://www.menorah.sk/
No response yet. What next? I don’t know.

Last Weekend Slovakia

2010-10-13T14:05:00.000-07:00

Last Weekend, Slovakia

I finally left Vienna about 2 pm Sat, heading for the birthplace of my Grandmother, Kotesova, Slovakia. It was mostly easy highway driving, a combination of castles and nuclear power plants, and I arrived about 5 pm. On the ride, I was thinking about Mom. I wish she could have been in the car, along with a sister or two.

The village of Kotesova is small, rural, at the widening of the river. I asked a couple, outside with their dog, if there was a hotel or pension. They told me, not in English, either Bytca or Oblazov Kotesova. The latter was the one I had seen on the internet. I spent a pleasant night. The menu had horse and some creature’s knees. I had a great four cheese pizza. Beautiful clear skies, Suzie and I walked up the hill behind the pension for a sky full of stars. Across the road from Hriechov Pension is a horse school. I had a romantic fantasy of my grandmother Sadie and my grandfather, William, meeting there. My father used to kid that William was a horse thief. I think they actually met in Chicago.

Left the hotel the next morning about ten. My plan was to explore and see if I could find a Jewish cemetery. I came to the turn off for Kotesova and I turned away from the village, up into the mountains. It was a beautiful fall morning, folloing the stream, few people out. Passed through Kotsova Bukova, to Velke Rovne. Turned around and passed a few groups going to church. I realized even though there was little English around, I had to ask, I wasn’t going to find it on my own.

Found a place to pull over by the stream/river. A group of men with a table of beer bottles were at a picnic bench. Suzie and I got out and walked a bit. I drew a picture of a headstone with a Jewish star. Across the street, a woman was locking up a shop. I decided to try her first. No English, little help, so I approached the table of men. Little English, but cemetery is about the same in Slovakian. I showed them my other papers, in Slovakian, my great grandmother’s birth certificate, and marriage certificate, showing Fani Zelenkova born and married in Kotesova. The word Rabinat at the top, got across the Jewish part. They sent me back up the mountain to the cemetery I had passed. I drove back up, perhaps there was a Jewish section. There wasn’t. The people I asked in the cemetery suggested Bytca, the nearest town. I waved to the table of men as I drove past, but I went back to the village of Kotesova instead.
In the village is a small coffee shop/bar. The woman working there ignored me. The guy outside with his son said “No English., As I was leaving, he called over to another table of men. One of them asked if I spoke German. At that table the German speaker was helpful. There was another car parked there, probably his, with Vienna license plates. He assured me in a combination of German and English that there was a cemetery, in fact two and a synagogue. They drew me a map, which led me right back to the other table of men.
Now that I thought it existed, I was even more determined. I went back to them and tried to communicate again. One man told me his “frau” spoke English. He got in the car with me and we drove down the street. His wife came out Alona?, and she spoke English very well. She knew nothing about a Jewish cemetery. She suggested her husband take me to a neighbor about five houses down, he works in city hall.

I said I appreciated it, but it is Sunday and I don’t want to disturb anyone. They called and we walked over. Next thing I know, I’m sitting at his kitchen table. They discussed the names, they didn’t recognize Zelenka. He said he would try to find out and I gave him my card. I explained that I didn’t expect to find a house or property, but perhaps a grave. He knew of a Jewish cemetery. I was to follow them.
We drove about a half mile out of town. I left my car in the grass where we turned onto a gravel road. We went about a quarter mile and he stopped. On the hillside next to us was an old Jewish cemetery. We had to work through trees and brush. I was standing among toppled gravestones. Hebrew writing and some dates, script in Hungarian?, moss covered headstones, tree branches everywhere. Some stones so old the writing was gone. There were a few big ones still standing. Jeanette Spitzer, one of them read. I asked who owned the land. He answered, “The Jews”. I had no idea what to do standing amid all those toppled stones. I can’t believe I didn’t take one picture. I told Alona I would have to come back. She had not known this existed. They dropped me off at my car with many thanks. They suggested going to the municipality in Bytac on Monday.

I took pictures of the road and surroundings, to help me find it again. The city hall man, whose name I didn’t get, measured on the way down for me, it is 100 meters from the house as you start up. It is 2 or 3 pm and I have to get back to Vienna. I went to Bytac, saw the synagogue and some charming buildings. They are working on the town square and I bet it will be cute.

I had mapped out a route home that was not highway. Why go the same way twice? So I headed to Zilina, taking route 64. I enjoy driving through the villages, even though the speed limit is 60 and takes twice as long. It was a gorgeous fall afternoon, the colors were spectacular,some of the best I’ve ever seen. Some spas along the way, good vacation spot. I turned off to Cicmany, charming village of traditional house. Didn’t get home until almost 10 pm, but what a weekend!

Florence 5771 Sept 2010

2010-09-23T12:36:00.000-07:00

What a day! I arrived in Florence by train about 8, left my bags at the hotel. By ten I was a the top of the Duomo, 434 stairs. I was not the only one sweating, it was warm, another pleasure. After descending, I had a cappacino and then I walked.

My birthday falling near the new year makes me reflective. I've been thinking about age. A couple of things I've noticed going, besides memory. My sense of direction, although not today. I used to be pretty good but I get turned around more easily now. At least I'm doing this at a good time, technology wise, GPS, here I come, iphone?
Now I've forgotten the other thing, so let's get back to memory.
I'm asking forgiveness right now for forgetting birthdays. I think they are important but I can't keep up. Other than my sisters and brother, you have to remind me. Too many nieces, nephews, extended family, friends. So at 58, I can still make it up the stairs to the dome of the Duomo. Who knows at 68? My feet hurt, but so what! I visited the Pitti Palace and gardens today. Overwhelmed with art on my first day.

Florence

2010-09-23T12:34:00.000-07:00

Florentines have a sense of humor and playfulness that I miss. The reception at the hotel, when I said I had two questions quipped, "the first one is free". How could I not see that was missing, perhaps I'm taking Austria too seriously.
Oh my aching feet! I walked all day. I had a 10am reservation for the Uffizi, which puts you on art overload almost immediately. Like the Hapsburgs, the Medicis had way too much money. They did a lot to preserve art, he sculptures, so many. I saw the "Birth of Venus", liked the one next to it "Primavera" perhaps more.

More impressive for me today was San Croce. I finally get frescos. The life in them after hundreds of years is amazing. Loved Michaelangelo's tomb too.

Saw the Jewish temple, highly fortified but a beautiful building. Had to sit for a while so I had a manicure, got Chianti colored nails.

Next day, saw "David." My jaw dropped, it had me breathless even after countless times seeing the image. Standing in front and walking around it is worth it.

From Florence Sept 2010

A Jew in Vienna

2010-09-22T13:23:00.000-07:00

Before I came to Austria, I looked at the Jewish community. I wondered if a Jew, me, would be comfortable in Vienna. I came with prejudices. My father would not buy a German car. My experience with the German accent was American movies, Nazis and evil. In my mind, I would sometimes flinch, hearing German. So could I, would I, be welcome, happy here?
The answer is yes and no.

Yes, life is good in Vienna. It is easy to get around. Good health care is provided. It is amazingly clean and beautiful!

I long ago gave up the “not buying German products” and I’ve visited Germany a few times. I’m glad to be able to say that I like the German language much more now. I have so many pleasant interactions in German. I think of the lady that I buy flowers from, the delightful German teachers at school and the sounds of life around, counting in games, acquiring vocabulary, using German myself.

Which brings me to Yiddish. I make many connections. I can hear my dad say “noch mal”, again. My mom say inga pathchin, messed up. The word for salmon in German is lachs, pronounced lox.

It is okay to be Jewish here but it isn’t okay to mention it too much. When I occasionally mention a Yiddish word, no one asks how much Yiddish I speak or how I know it or even if I am Jewish, a fair assumption. It simply isn’t talked about, that is the feeling I get.

There are reminders of the Jews that lived here. Squares, about envelope size, are on the streets and on buildings with the names and dates of the people that lived there. Not many people know of them or notice them. In this city of grandeur, they have no grandeur.

There is a memorial in the old Jewish section that I really like. It is a bare library.

I have visited the Jewish Museums and find them sad and troubling. The top floor of the Jewish museum is crowded with Jewish stuff, menorahs, torah covers, that nobody claimed?

In the audio guide it says that the Jewish community was dissolved. That word troubles me, sugar dissolves, people don’t. People were murdered. Berlin uses the word murder in their Jewish museum. Austria doesn’t include, from 1938 onwards as their history, since they were annexed by Germany, Anschluss. My trouble with that, I think a person, country, people don’t heal unless they deal with the past.

Austria is a contradiction in many ways. They had a Jewish Chancellor, Bruno Kreisky, for many years. They also didn’t pay reparations until 1995.

So, is it comfortable to be a Jew in Vienna? For the most part, yes, there are probably no more Nazis here than in California.

Onward, Pjelasic Peninsula and Vela Luka, Korcula

2010-07-24T10:14:00.000-07:00

After breakfast, I drove to the Pjelgasic Peninsula, reminds me of Point Reyes, with grape vines. It felt like home, grapes ripening, stopped at one small winery and tasted. Checked on the ferry times in Orebic and then drove to Loviste, the end of the peninsula.Pansion Tamaris, swim before dinner, lobster salad at Konoba Barsa. fresh fish!
Ferry to Korcula, skipped the historic town, still too hot and crowded. Drove the length of the island again. Lunch in Brato, Zlinke restaureant, green pasta with shrimp, ancient building, delicious food and wine. Vela Luka staying with Marita and family in an A/C sobe. Local wine makers and olive oil producers, as well as hosts. Delightful!, First time they took a dog!

Wanted to go to Hvar, but can't from here, with my car. Heading home, a ferry to Split and then hit the highway.

Dubrovnik and around, July 16, 17, 18,

2010-07-24T08:56:00.000-07:00

Amazing Coast! Lunch in Ston, yummy oysters. Too hot to walk to the old walls. Arrive in Dubrovnik lovely hotel Kazbek. A/C, quiet area, great shrimp dinner at the near by yacht club.
Exquisite breakfast, best croissants I've had outside of France.
Drove to the old city, gorgeous,hot and crowded. I would love to go back and walk the city walls but not now, when it is over 90. City has charm and friendly too.

Drove to the hotel areas and looked at the other beaches. Had a terrible quesadilla, canned vegetables.
Napped and walked the nearby promenade for an ice cream in the evening.
July 18, spent the day swimming at the hotel.

Went to dinner in nearby Cavtat with Thersa and Hannah Brits also staying at the hotel. We picked a nice quiet restaurant by the water, but then the locals set up speakers with loud music, and the evenings water polo game.

Road to Dubrovnik July 15

2010-07-24T08:13:00.000-07:00

For my Napa driveway?

Off the ferry in Split, from Vis, headed south. I had one night before my reservations in Dubrovnik. That stretch of coast is spectacular. Drove until I found a small town, the coast is packed with places to stay, but I tried for something simpler,Blace. Lots of families, (South Haven of Croatia) but quiet, low key, calm and beautiful. Rooms were not abundant. 15 euro room, shared porch/terrace with lieutenant colonel, Mercedes and her husband and son, from Bosnia.
Mercedes' English is excellent. she went to Monterey language institute. It's hot! I'm sitting having coffee at 9:30 am and sweating. Good to hang out and good conversations. On to Dubrovnik with their recommendations.

Vis, Croatian Island, Mid Dalmatia coast

2010-07-17T09:48:00.000-07:00

Took the 3pm ferry to Vis. Drove to the other end and back, about 10km. Dinner at Vista Klub, seaside, yummy lamb. Found Milna, about 10pm, am overcharged but this place is gorgeous. I'm sitting on a balcony in the middle of the Adriatic. My view is two small islands.
First day here, I shopped for food and rested. Watched Star trek, took an afternoon swim at the rocky beach. The proprietor, Antonia came by with a plate of salted fish with tomatoes and green peppers, drizzled with olive oil. Incredibly good! The only thing missing was the wine.
Next day I went to get wine. First a dip in the sea at the sandy beach.
Pulled into a winery. Found a table with 4 men and two woman. One of the men, cute Belgian journalist, offered to translate. Tried red wine, crno, prosek, port like and a grappa. Bought the first two for 100 kunas. The closure is the old bottle cap type.
Then I drove into Komiza, to check on grotto tour, internet cafe and booked a hotel in Dubrovnik. Finding a hotel at night with a dog in a new city is not always fun.
Stopped in what I thought was a winery but really was a restaurant and asked for both red and white wine. They looked at me funny. Took a dip at Razunac beach before heading "home" to Uskok. It has cooled down tonight. It is beautiful, sitting by the sea, noisy cicadas, voices carrying from the village but calm. Being on vacation is great!

Split July 11

2010-07-17T09:18:00.000-07:00

Hot! Arrived and couldn't find a hotel. Sunday the tourist office is closed. After walking around, I stopped at a hostel. They don't take dogs but Sheva called a friend, Mariani. I rented an apt for the night for 60 euros, it was supposed to be 50. It was the laundry that sold me! I only planned to be gone two weeks and I was running out of clean clothes. I put the laundry in and fell asleep in a nice A/c apt. Woke up after 7pm and decided to go for a walk. There is a wonderful park on a peninsula there. I walked for hours, much further than I thought. Reached the Riva, riverfront at 10 pm. World Cup finals, lots of people out. Pizza and a taxi home. Charming town, the doge was here!

Zadar and Skradin July 8, 9 10

2010-07-17T08:46:00.000-07:00

Drove to Zadar, interesting sea organ, terrible lasagna lunch and a delightful pet shop owner recommended Skradin. (I hope he enjoys his trip to CA for his niece's wedding in Sacramento!)

I could stay here for a while. Hot, by a lake, kids, but not too many. Water is cool, calm, gravelly bottom, quite refreshing. Blue skies, yachts, swans, ten right in the middle of the lake in front of me. Boats leave here for the national park. Krka. Thanks to the nice man in the pet shop, I have an amazing room with a/c, and internet for about 20 euros. There are 3 beds, a stove and refrig and a warm friendly English speaking waiter/host, Denis, the best.

www.visovac.com

In Skradin, you take the boat up the lake and take a walk, much like Plitvice Lake, following a trail. It was beautiful and less crowded, also only 1.5 km, I think.

July 4th, 5,6 Plitvice Jezero, Croatia

2010-07-17T02:17:00.000-07:00

Jen and I don't get moving early and I drive back roads. It took us 9 hours to get to Plitvice Lakes. We had an amazing storm along the way. I pulled off because I couldn't see to drive. It only lasted about half an hour. Then windy roads until dark. Driving with no civilization in sight. It was 9 or 10 before we finally stopped at a "sobe" room. We were only 10km from the park.
Checked into the Bellevue, one of only 2 hotels, the fancy one wouldn't take a dog.
The park/lakes are beautiful but very controlled. There are 2 main walks, along wooden pathways, (beware bifocal wearers, the steps are invisible). Boat loads of people more along the 2 1/2 hour path, took me 3 but I waited until everyone had gone ahead.

The next day Jen left and I took the boat across the lake to the other path. but I didn't do the walk on that side. Drove to Pog Island, stopped in Graca for coffee and tried to visit the caves, but couldn't. The woman at the coffee shop gave me a photo taken in the cave. Beautiful picture, warm hospitality and a connection made, without much English.
Pog is small cute, island town. Hotel Belvedre, last room was a suite with a huge balcony, 70 euros. I took it for two nights. Hung out at the small pool with three Brits. Pool in the morning, shopping in the afternoon, water shoes, two pair of earrings, blue blouse and pizza.

July 2, 3, Lake Bled

2010-07-17T01:56:00.000-07:00

Hot! Nothing but an air conditioned room will do. 60 euros a night, I love Best Western, coffee in the room, a terrace, yummy bruscheta with artichokes and cheese.
Walked around Lake Bled, 6km. Went swimming three times along the way fun!

July 1st

2010-07-17T01:43:00.000-07:00

Drove to Ljubljana, the town of three bridges, a castle on the hill top. A great walking town, lively, picturesque. Didn't get to the library, supposed to be special. I may have to go back.

Summer 2010

2010-07-16T15:30:00.000-07:00

Even though this blog is called Odetoaustria, I post mostly about my trips outside. So this is more like, my two years at VIS and my adventures.

Jen and I took off from Vienna on June 30th, car packed, Susie Q in the back seat. We didn't have much of a plan, both of us wanted to see Plitvice Lakes, Croatia and Lake Bled, Slovenia. Jen had to be in Split, Croatia on July 7th.

Took off about noon, stopped at a Hundertwasser rest stop grill. George, my GPS system, quit on us and I got lost. Not a news flash. We wound up in a spa town called, Rogaška Slatina. Delightful spa town, with disgusting tasting water, heavy on magnesium. It is supposed to clean you out, we got on the road instead.

April in Morocco

2010-04-15T10:23:00.000-07:00

I'm on a rooftop in Fez. It is about 10 pm. I just finished dinner, pastille de pigeon. It is Tuesday night, we have now been in Morocoo for five days. What I saw of Casblanca was a big, dirty city. We didn't plan to stay there. We arrived at night, had pizza for dinner and left the next morning. We boarded a bus to Essaouira. Four hours in a comfy bus to a sweet, seaside town. Our riad was comfortable and cute, the green room, The people were lovely at Dar Liouba. The town was relaxed souk with old Portuguese battlements.

We discovered thuya, a wood native to the region, from which beautiful items are made. We also discovered argan, a tree from which many things are made. We took an early, 9am. bus to Marakkeh, which broke down at 10 am. We had a lovely two hour roadside wait for a replacement bus. We were next to a field with olive and argan trees. Since we had no schedule, it was not a bad day.

We arrived in Marrakesh in the late afternoon.
Marakkech is intense, too intense for me. It is also very dirty and crowded, with mopeds and cars in the medina. We paid a visit to "the square" and it is a site to behold. We had ice cream for dinner. The next day we visited Majorelle Gardens that Yves St. Laurent and someone redid, a number of years ago. Lunched in the new city and bought English language books and beautiful jewelry. Dinner in the riad was a disappointment food wise, but picturesque and peaceful. Riad Nabila was wonderful but the location was too far away from the center.

We boarded a train this morning and spent seven hours traveling to Fez. I'm glad we got to see this much of the country. The ride from Rabat to Fez is beautiful. Checked into another beautiful riad,enormous room with a great view from the roof. I've fallen in love with Fez already, much cleaner and feels more comfortable. Less hassles,(not all gone)on the streets. Guides are offical and taxis are metered. The streets are too narrow for motor vehicles. Really it is the air that has captured me, the mountains are around us, there are vistas everywhere. Tonight as I sit here with a sweater it is quiet. The call to prayer at seven was amazing. It had power. I later learned there are over 300 mosques here. The city glows behind me.

Winter in Paris 2010

2010-02-21T09:17:00.000-08:00

I am such a lucky person! I just returned from a week in Paris with my sister Serene and cousin, Anita. We had a blast, with some significant ups and downs. I was basically sick when I arrived on Saturday and put a good face on it for Sunday and Monday. Sunday was Ile St. Louis and Monday, I stayed home when they went out for dinner. Tuesday I finally went to the doctor, a cab ride to the American Hospital because it made me feel better than the closer French ones. I was diagnosed with bronchitis and sinutis. Wednesday. had a great day reading, U is for Undertow, warm and cozy in our Paris apartment. One of our favorite restaurants was directly downstairs. Good coffee, soup, wine, port, croissants you can only get in Paris. Thursday, we had a great day walking and shopping$$$ in St. Germain en Laye, a suburb of Paris. That ended with an encounter with the Chalelet Metro station, or something. We couldn’t get out. It was surreal. Friday morning I went down for breakfast, then came upstairs and Serene made me an appointment for a dentist, back to the American Hospital. I took a cab to the hospital and a very nice dentist relieved the pain of an abscessed tooth and made me an appointment for a root canal. I walked Paris for a couple of hours, having coffee and buying more antibiotics. At six that night, I was finished. Serene and Anita picked me up. We took a cab home and I went to bed. I was fine the next day. A bit sore but that didn’t stop me from buying a new blue backpack, a 60th birthday present for Serene, earrings, black pants, a new top. Serene bought me a great blue hat to go with my new coat and backpack. Our last night, we had pizza and took a cab ride to Sacre Coeur and to the Eiffel Tour and then home.
I am lucky to have wonderful people in my life. I am incredibly lucky to be able to travel like I do. I am lucky to have money for these emergencies. I can afford health care, that is huge.
Back at work tomorrow, but good times ahead.

Happy New Year!

2010-01-05T15:42:00.000-08:00

I had a great year. Hope you did too.
See you in 2010.

Make a Smilebox greeting

Christmas in Azores

2010-01-05T14:36:00.000-08:00

December 21st.
Angra de Heroismo
Hamburger in a café, then fried sugary, flat donut. Then I wandered through the city, looking for the Municipal Gardens. I would up at the Memorial with great vistas and down through the gardens. I went back by way of the fort and was surprised to find a sign with Hebrew writing. I happened upon the Jewish Cemetery. Then back to the hotel for a good dinner and nights rest. Fly to Pico tomorrow.
Pico
December 22,23, 24, 25, 26.
I am staying in a basalt house in Pico. It is quiet, except for the humming refrigerator. It is cold and beautiful. Spent the morning drive the coast, old winery in Lajido, to the port Madalena. I caught the 13:45 boat to Horta on Faial Island. There was a rainbow as we left. The ride was rocky, but I could be outside and it only takes half an hour. In Horta I got a map at the tourist office and started walking. Lunch in a Chinese restaurant, coffee and a palmeira at 4, back to the boat by 5 for 17:15 boat back. The ride back was like a roller coaster. I hate roller coasters. The rain started as we took off and the ride back was thankfully just a half hour too. Guess I wouldn’t make it on the open seas.
Next day, I drove around the island. Too many awesome wave photos but I kept trying to capture the turquoise. Lunch in Lajes, good pizza, all of the whale museums are closed and most shops and restaurants too. I expected Christmas to be like that. I had planned to just walk tomorrow. I hear the rain is not going to stop. So I’m in the middle of the Atlantic but warm and dry in my cute little house.
Back to Angra, rented a car and drove around the island of Terceira. Looked at the Air Force base, great location. Had a great lunch at a restaurant called Caneta. Green, and lovely and rainy. Hotel in Praia de Vitoria, pouring rain from 6pm on. After 4 hours in the airport the next day, our flight was canceled. They put us up in a nice hotel in Angra and we got an extra day, the rain stopped in the afternoon. Got out and made all my connections the next day. Even had my luggage at the end! A restful and beautiful trip.

October 2009

2009-11-13T16:33:00.000-08:00

October started out with a lovely walk with staff inKorneuburg. We went from the Gruber’s house to a heurigan, winery/restaurant, and back again. Ten of us from school, two dogs, about an hour each way, delightful! There was an “art walk” the Path of Life, on the way back. A sculptor that lives nearby and other artists from around the world, created outdoor art, depicting the stages of life. Interesting stuff. The Path of Life does end at the village church. This is Austria.
We had some staff development days and Parent/Teacher conferences so I had some time to catch up on the behind the scenes library work. I’m learning a lot, PYP, primary library programming in the library, the workings of VIS. Then…
Midterm break. We word hard at international schools but I love the breaks. Mary, another American staff and I went to Wabi, www.wabi.hu. We checked in, then checked out the nearby town, pictures attached.

The next morning, we took a drive , first to Lake Ferto, probably more fun in the summer, and found a winery on the way back. Harvest time in Hungary.
We went back to Wabi for lunch and our spa day, full body massage, manicure with wax, pedicure with wax and a facial. Lovely!
The next day we drove to Budapest, sort of. Even with a GPS, I managed to get lost. We typed in Gyor and would up in Gyoro, who knew? About an hour out of the way, but it was a beautiful autumn day. We stayed at the King’s hotel. I took a long walk that night, safe and happening Budapest. Beautiful and crumbling, both.
Toured the Budapest Synagogue, then walked to Margarit Island. Dinner at Hotel Astoria. The next day we went to the Flohr Market/Flea market. We spent hours searching for treasures. It is like hundreds of garage sales in one place. Drove home that evening, about two and a half hours.

Autumn

2009-09-30T12:22:00.000-07:00

These pictures are taken near my apartment.

Tonight, on our walk, I was looking forward to snow. The area I live in has a park nearby with large meadows. I was imagining it covered with freshly fallen snow. There is a chill in the air that makes me think of winter. Autumn is my favorite season as I get older, without the extremes of temperature. The light in the fall is also special.

These were taken in the ninth district, on the day I went to the Austrian equivalent of the DMV. I am in the process of getting an Austrian drivers license and registering my car. I also have to get snow tires by Nov. 15th.

Early I commented on how calm Vienna was. Well since the end of summer it has filled back up. The trains are crowded in the morning. I live almost at the end, so I always get a seat. I take two trains, about 20 minutes each. It is still not a frantic city. The pace is fast but not crazy and mostly people are friendly. There is also an amazing variety of people. People of all ages and classes ride the trains, Curly is allowed on all the trains, trams and buses.

Home in Austria

2009-09-15T13:02:00.000-07:00

As I was walking last night, admiring the buildings and getting to know my neighborhood, it suddenly dawned on me, I’m in Austria. They don’t park on the sidewalk here.

I love the food here, lots of wonderful bread, kaseweiner ( a cheese hot dog), dumplings. I can get sour cream and cottage cheese here. I miss Portuguese coffee and American sharp cheddar cheese.
I’m much more used to German but not ready to speak, still absorbing sounds.

I finished unpacking all of my boxes and spent the weekend cocooning. It feels like home although I still need a few things, an office chair and rug for the living room. I’m set on enjoying the seasons. Right now the air is crisp but it is still warm. Pulling out the sweaters.

Work is busy so I’ve had little time to explore. I went to Schonbrunn, a beautiful castle/estate and have ,checked out some neighborhoods. I’m saving the museums for colder weather. I’m in Austria! Come have a pastry with me.

Week 3

2009-09-15T12:38:00.000-07:00

Week 3 is over and I’m not sure how. I am now internet connected and my stuff has arrived from Portugal. All of that is very nice but I went from minimalist to 16 boxes of stuff. Glad to have silverware and my pictures but I wish this had arrived two weeks ago, when I had time to find a place for it, before work started. Ah life, rarely a dull moment. So I had classes in the library all week, getting to know the teachers, getting a feel for the school. The surprise for me is the amount of time I have with the littlies. I have 4 preschool classes and 4 kindergarten (called grade primary here), for 40 minutes each week. I’ve gone from teenagers to toddlers! What do I do? There is a bit of a panic but also a bit of fun. It means I have a lot to learn, strategies and tricks for the littlies and books to read and learn.
My schedule is busy! The library is busy, non-stop. Not the stereotype of quiet, quite the opposite. I have two bright upbeat adult helpers, thank goodness. Last week at the end of one day, as I walked to the subway (U bahn), I was surprised to hear German. I had been so immersed in English all day. Then there is the after work stuff of negotiating the grocery store or…and it all comes back to me. I’m sleeping better still not settled yet still enjoying life!

Work!

2009-08-30T11:48:00.000-07:00

"Work!" said Maynard G. Krebs.
I started work on Wednesday, orientation for new teachers. So much information, so many new faces and personalities.
I moved into my new place Monday evening, I took a two bedroom in the thirteenth district, Hietzing, which I have learned is quite posh. Notice my language changing, hanging out with Brits and Aussies etal.

The apartment is far from school, 45 minutes door to door on the subway. It is also on the 4th floor without an elevator. Those are the negatives.

It is furnished with nice furniture, including two televisions, patio furniture and a sound system and DVD player. It has two terraces, one on each side, on the top floor of the building. I have a view of the hills from one side and part of the city from the other. It is a quiet neighborhood, with a grocery store on this street and a bakery. I'm loving it and so is Curly

First week, in August

2009-08-11T11:13:00.001-07:00

Sacher Torte is THAT good.
I’ve enjoyed my first week in Vienna! I’m exhausted. I forgot how difficult it is to adjust, not knowing the simple things like entrance and exit, days of the week. The weather has been warm and rainy and humid. Thunderstorm last night, light showers today, hot in between.
I’ve been apt/house hunting, learning the neighborhoods. Beautiful buildings everywhere, hidden courtyards and gardens. I see more tomorrow and hope to be in a new place by this weekend.
I’ve also seen a few highlights, went to the top of the Donastrum (Danube Tower) amazing views, beautiful park around it.

Sat outside with a Sacher Torte, Latte and Curly. Starbucks across from me.
Vienna is a big city but feels calm somehow. I wonder if I will feel that way a year from now. Someone said it is because it is holiday time, August. There are many people in the tourist areas but not crowded other places. I went to a film festival event at the Rathaus.
It was so well run, food booths with a wide variety of food and wine and coffee.
There is so much beauty here, the buildings and the green spaces.
I will rent a two bedroom, come and share this with me.

Transitions

2009-08-02T20:21:00.000-07:00

What was I thinking?
When I decided to drive to Vienna, my thoughts were that it would be a good way to transition, I would see many sites and come to Vienna refreshed and ready. Wrong! All I am is hot and tired. The second day out the A/C went. The problem with that is I just paid a lot to have it fixed. So it is 35c or around 100 F and I’m on the road. It is okay when you are going but stop and I cook!

Day one, left Portugal about 1 pm. Made it to Merida, Spain. Found a hotel that accepts dogs, no problem. Had a nice walk around town. Coffee in the morning and on the road.

Day two. No A/C Driving to Toledo. My goal is air conditioned hotel. Followed the signs to the tourist info center. They listed hotels that have air conditioning and take dogs! I went to the Hotel Kris Domenico. It is actually on the outskirts of town, looking over the town. It was too late and too hot to tour any way. I went for a swim, had a glass of wine and tapas at the outside café and was in for the night.
Next day I headed for the coast, with the idea that it would be cooler. It wasn’t! I started out in the wrong direction, 30 miles each way and right back where I started, then on to the coast. It was pretty. I wound up in the town of Benicassim at the Vista Allegra hotel. Very nice people, decent room, a couple of blocks from the sea. I asked about a mechanic but decided to head to Barcelona instead, more of a major city.

Reached Barcelona and stopped in an Opel dealership. They directed me to a Opel repair shop. Only got a little lost getting there. The mechanic, with rough English, told me that I need a new compressor, the one I just paid 500 euros for. Then he checked and said it would be three days for the parts. First I cried. Then I left. I decided to at least see Barcelona. Went downtown and parked. Walked the downtown, got to see the buildings, amazing architecture but a generic feeling to the city. Stores like Zara, Gap, Diesel. I left town about 4, hoping to drive while it is a bit cooler, keeping to the coast. Stopped at a couple of beaches, taking the national roads, enjoying the driving more. Passing fields of sunflowers, finally in France.

Spent the night in Banyuls-sur-Merat the Elms hotel. http://www.hotel-des-elmes.com/ Quite Spartan room but A/C and a bed is what I ‘m looking for and they take dogs. Curly and I are happy.

I head out after breakfast, getting later starts to beat the heat? Figure I will stop for lunch on the coast and then drive to 9 or 10 at night. Driving along the Med is not cooler.Stopped in a small town. Palavas les flots, with a lighthouse, not, a restaurant in the shape of one. I had a glass of wine and looked at the view. The names Cannes and Nice are enticing me forward. Always heard of them, never been there.

Around 9 pm I arrived in Aix en Provence. Valerie went to school there, I knew it had a university and thought I could find a hotel. Everything was booked! I headed out of town about 11 and took the turn off for St. Tropez. It was a winding mountain road. I stopped at three more hotels, all booked. I spent the night in the car! I couldn’t drive anymore. I parked in the lot of a fancy looking hotel, it felt safe. I put the seat back and managed to sleep. I woke at 6:30 and headed to the French Riviera. I had a shower on the beach, with my clothes on and coffee. Then I slept a bit more on the beach. No dogs were allowed so I was asked to leave around ten, the beach was filling up. The traffic along the coast was awful, much like Laguna to Dana Point in the summer and it was HOT. I had lunch in Saint Rafael and stopped in a tourist office. I made a reservation for a hotel in Beausoleil, just across the street from Monaco. No more nights in the car for me!
Spent the night at Hotel Diana, Walked around Monaco a bit but no time to check out the sites. Pretty town, but… Onward to Italy.
Took to the highway the next day, it is cooler with the windows open at 120km. great roads into Italy. At Genoa, I turned inland. I saw Lake Garda on the map, it rang a bell, still don’t know why, except possibly the book Hotel du Lac. Headed that way. Got caught in a traffic jam. Sat for an hour on the highway trying to exit to Lake Garda. It was HOT. I was pouring water on my head. Finally arrived at the lake, got out at a beach spot for a cold drink.

Two ladies took my picture and I asked for hotel recommendations. One suggestion, Hotel Vigne was right on the lake and delightful, in the town of Salo. Hospitality was great, including breakfast. Delightful town and hotel, would like to go back in the spring.

Drove up the western side of the lake to beautiful views, many tunnels, a combination of awesome manmade and natural sites. It was overcast and even rained a bit at one point, a welcome relief. It took three hours to drive to the top, bigger than Lake Tahoe, just as awe inspiring.
Picked up the highway to get to Innsbruck, or at least into Austria for the night. I stopped at an information spot and the woman there suggested the town of Kufstein. It is smaller than Innsbruck and closer to Vienna, where I was due the next day. I smiled as I entered town. It is a site for opera and the home of Riedel glass. I would like to return another day to take that tour. I stayed in the smallest hotel room, I’ve ever seen. From bed to door was 3 or 4 feet. They took dogs, had parking, included breakfast and internet connection for 45 euros, I stayed. Curly was allowed at my feet, as I ate dinner downstairs and he was welcomed at breakfast too. It was the beginning of seeing how dogs are welcome in Austria.
I set out the next morning by ten, with plans to meet Karin at my lodgings at three. It should have been enough time but… Salzburg was hosting a festival and it took me three hours to go 100km, to get past Salzburg. I arrived in Vienna, at the apt at 5pm. Karin was waiting. She had put a bit of food and wine in the fridge, turned on the air conditioning and made me welcome. I have arrived.