I have written a couple of emails to:
http://www.slovak-jewish-heritage.org/
and
http://www.menorah.sk/
No response yet. What next? I don’t know.
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Slovakia Revisited
I have written a couple of emails to:
http://www.slovak-jewish-heritage.org/
and
http://www.menorah.sk/
No response yet. What next? I don’t know.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Last Weekend Slovakia
Last Weekend, Slovakia
I finally left Vienna about 2 pm Sat, heading for the birthplace of my Grandmother, Kotesova, Slovakia. It was mostly easy highway driving, a combination of castles and nuclear power plants, and I arrived about 5 pm. On the ride, I was thinking about Mom. I wish she could have been in the car, along with a sister or two.
The village of Kotesova is small, rural, at the widening of the river. I asked a couple, outside with their dog, if there was a hotel or pension. They told me, not in English, either Bytca or Oblazov Kotesova. The latter was the one I had seen on the internet. I spent a pleasant night. The menu had horse and some creature’s knees. I had a great four cheese pizza. Beautiful clear skies, Suzie and I walked up the hill behind the pension for a sky full of stars. Across the road from Hriechov Pension is a horse school. I had a romantic fantasy of my grandmother Sadie and my grandfather, William, meeting there. My father used to kid that William was a horse thief. I think they actually met in Chicago.
Left the hotel the next morning about ten. My plan was to explore and see if I could find a Jewish cemetery. I came to the turn off for Kotesova and I turned away from the village, up into the mountains. It was a beautiful fall morning, folloing the stream, few people out. Passed through Kotsova Bukova, to Velke Rovne. Turned around and passed a few groups going to church. I realized even though there was little English around, I had to ask, I wasn’t going to find it on my own.
Found a place to pull over by the stream/river. A group of men with a table of beer bottles were at a picnic bench. Suzie and I got out and walked a bit. I drew a picture of a headstone with a Jewish star. Across the street, a woman was locking up a shop. I decided to try her first. No English, little help, so I approached the table of men. Little English, but cemetery is about the same in Slovakian. I showed them my other papers, in Slovakian, my great grandmother’s birth certificate, and marriage certificate, showing Fani Zelenkova born and married in Kotesova. The word Rabinat at the top, got across the Jewish part. They sent me back up the mountain to the cemetery I had passed. I drove back up, perhaps there was a Jewish section. There wasn’t. The people I asked in the cemetery suggested Bytca, the nearest town. I waved to the table of men as I drove past, but I went back to the village of Kotesova instead.
In the village is a small coffee shop/bar. The woman working there ignored me. The guy outside with his son said “No English., As I was leaving, he called over to another table of men. One of them asked if I spoke German. At that table the German speaker was helpful. There was another car parked there, probably his, with Vienna license plates. He assured me in a combination of German and English that there was a cemetery, in fact two and a synagogue. They drew me a map, which led me right back to the other table of men.
Now that I thought it existed, I was even more determined. I went back to them and tried to communicate again. One man told me his “frau” spoke English. He got in the car with me and we drove down the street. His wife came out Alona?, and she spoke English very well. She knew nothing about a Jewish cemetery. She suggested her husband take me to a neighbor about five houses down, he works in city hall.
I said I appreciated it, but it is Sunday and I don’t want to disturb anyone. They called and we walked over. Next thing I know, I’m sitting at his kitchen table. They discussed the names, they didn’t recognize Zelenka. He said he would try to find out and I gave him my card. I explained that I didn’t expect to find a house or property, but perhaps a grave. He knew of a Jewish cemetery. I was to follow them.
We drove about a half mile out of town. I left my car in the grass where we turned onto a gravel road. We went about a quarter mile and he stopped. On the hillside next to us was an old Jewish cemetery. We had to work through trees and brush. I was standing among toppled gravestones. Hebrew writing and some dates, script in Hungarian?, moss covered headstones, tree branches everywhere. Some stones so old the writing was gone. There were a few big ones still standing. Jeanette Spitzer, one of them read. I asked who owned the land. He answered, “The Jews”. I had no idea what to do standing amid all those toppled stones. I can’t believe I didn’t take one picture. I told Alona I would have to come back. She had not known this existed. They dropped me off at my car with many thanks. They suggested going to the municipality in Bytac on Monday.
I took pictures of the road and surroundings, to help me find it again. The city hall man, whose name I didn’t get, measured on the way down for me, it is 100 meters from the house as you start up. It is 2 or 3 pm and I have to get back to Vienna. I went to Bytac, saw the synagogue and some charming buildings. They are working on the town square and I bet it will be cute.
I had mapped out a route home that was not highway. Why go the same way twice? So I headed to Zilina, taking route 64. I enjoy driving through the villages, even though the speed limit is 60 and takes twice as long. It was a gorgeous fall afternoon, the colors were spectacular,some of the best I’ve ever seen. Some spas along the way, good vacation spot. I turned off to Cicmany, charming village of traditional house. Didn’t get home until almost 10 pm, but what a weekend!
I finally left Vienna about 2 pm Sat, heading for the birthplace of my Grandmother, Kotesova, Slovakia. It was mostly easy highway driving, a combination of castles and nuclear power plants, and I arrived about 5 pm. On the ride, I was thinking about Mom. I wish she could have been in the car, along with a sister or two.
The village of Kotesova is small, rural, at the widening of the river. I asked a couple, outside with their dog, if there was a hotel or pension. They told me, not in English, either Bytca or Oblazov Kotesova. The latter was the one I had seen on the internet. I spent a pleasant night. The menu had horse and some creature’s knees. I had a great four cheese pizza. Beautiful clear skies, Suzie and I walked up the hill behind the pension for a sky full of stars. Across the road from Hriechov Pension is a horse school. I had a romantic fantasy of my grandmother Sadie and my grandfather, William, meeting there. My father used to kid that William was a horse thief. I think they actually met in Chicago.
Left the hotel the next morning about ten. My plan was to explore and see if I could find a Jewish cemetery. I came to the turn off for Kotesova and I turned away from the village, up into the mountains. It was a beautiful fall morning, folloing the stream, few people out. Passed through Kotsova Bukova, to Velke Rovne. Turned around and passed a few groups going to church. I realized even though there was little English around, I had to ask, I wasn’t going to find it on my own.
Found a place to pull over by the stream/river. A group of men with a table of beer bottles were at a picnic bench. Suzie and I got out and walked a bit. I drew a picture of a headstone with a Jewish star. Across the street, a woman was locking up a shop. I decided to try her first. No English, little help, so I approached the table of men. Little English, but cemetery is about the same in Slovakian. I showed them my other papers, in Slovakian, my great grandmother’s birth certificate, and marriage certificate, showing Fani Zelenkova born and married in Kotesova. The word Rabinat at the top, got across the Jewish part. They sent me back up the mountain to the cemetery I had passed. I drove back up, perhaps there was a Jewish section. There wasn’t. The people I asked in the cemetery suggested Bytca, the nearest town. I waved to the table of men as I drove past, but I went back to the village of Kotesova instead.
In the village is a small coffee shop/bar. The woman working there ignored me. The guy outside with his son said “No English., As I was leaving, he called over to another table of men. One of them asked if I spoke German. At that table the German speaker was helpful. There was another car parked there, probably his, with Vienna license plates. He assured me in a combination of German and English that there was a cemetery, in fact two and a synagogue. They drew me a map, which led me right back to the other table of men.
Now that I thought it existed, I was even more determined. I went back to them and tried to communicate again. One man told me his “frau” spoke English. He got in the car with me and we drove down the street. His wife came out Alona?, and she spoke English very well. She knew nothing about a Jewish cemetery. She suggested her husband take me to a neighbor about five houses down, he works in city hall.
I said I appreciated it, but it is Sunday and I don’t want to disturb anyone. They called and we walked over. Next thing I know, I’m sitting at his kitchen table. They discussed the names, they didn’t recognize Zelenka. He said he would try to find out and I gave him my card. I explained that I didn’t expect to find a house or property, but perhaps a grave. He knew of a Jewish cemetery. I was to follow them.
We drove about a half mile out of town. I left my car in the grass where we turned onto a gravel road. We went about a quarter mile and he stopped. On the hillside next to us was an old Jewish cemetery. We had to work through trees and brush. I was standing among toppled gravestones. Hebrew writing and some dates, script in Hungarian?, moss covered headstones, tree branches everywhere. Some stones so old the writing was gone. There were a few big ones still standing. Jeanette Spitzer, one of them read. I asked who owned the land. He answered, “The Jews”. I had no idea what to do standing amid all those toppled stones. I can’t believe I didn’t take one picture. I told Alona I would have to come back. She had not known this existed. They dropped me off at my car with many thanks. They suggested going to the municipality in Bytac on Monday.
I took pictures of the road and surroundings, to help me find it again. The city hall man, whose name I didn’t get, measured on the way down for me, it is 100 meters from the house as you start up. It is 2 or 3 pm and I have to get back to Vienna. I went to Bytac, saw the synagogue and some charming buildings. They are working on the town square and I bet it will be cute.
I had mapped out a route home that was not highway. Why go the same way twice? So I headed to Zilina, taking route 64. I enjoy driving through the villages, even though the speed limit is 60 and takes twice as long. It was a gorgeous fall afternoon, the colors were spectacular,some of the best I’ve ever seen. Some spas along the way, good vacation spot. I turned off to Cicmany, charming village of traditional house. Didn’t get home until almost 10 pm, but what a weekend!
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Florence 5771 Sept 2010
What a day! I arrived in Florence by train about 8, left my bags at the hotel. By ten I was a the top of the Duomo, 434 stairs. I was not the only one sweating, it was warm, another pleasure. After descending, I had a cappacino and then I walked.
My birthday falling near the new year makes me reflective. I've been thinking about age. A couple of things I've noticed going, besides memory. My sense of direction, although not today. I used to be pretty good but I get turned around more easily now. At least I'm doing this at a good time, technology wise, GPS, here I come, iphone?
Now I've forgotten the other thing, so let's get back to memory.
I'm asking forgiveness right now for forgetting birthdays. I think they are important but I can't keep up. Other than my sisters and brother, you have to remind me. Too many nieces, nephews, extended family, friends. So at 58, I can still make it up the stairs to the dome of the Duomo. Who knows at 68? My feet hurt, but so what! I visited the Pitti Palace and gardens today. Overwhelmed with art on my first day.
Florence
Florentines have a sense of humor and playfulness that I miss. The reception at the hotel, when I said I had two questions quipped, "the first one is free". How could I not see that was missing, perhaps I'm taking Austria too seriously.
Oh my aching feet! I walked all day. I had a 10am reservation for the Uffizi, which puts you on art overload almost immediately. Like the Hapsburgs, the Medicis had way too much money. They did a lot to preserve art, he sculptures, so many. I saw the "Birth of Venus", liked the one next to it "Primavera" perhaps more.
More impressive for me today was San Croce. I finally get frescos. The life in them after hundreds of years is amazing. Loved Michaelangelo's tomb too.
Saw the Jewish temple, highly fortified but a beautiful building. Had to sit for a while so I had a manicure, got Chianti colored nails.
Next day, saw "David." My jaw dropped, it had me breathless even after countless times seeing the image. Standing in front and walking around it is worth it.
Oh my aching feet! I walked all day. I had a 10am reservation for the Uffizi, which puts you on art overload almost immediately. Like the Hapsburgs, the Medicis had way too much money. They did a lot to preserve art, he sculptures, so many. I saw the "Birth of Venus", liked the one next to it "Primavera" perhaps more.
More impressive for me today was San Croce. I finally get frescos. The life in them after hundreds of years is amazing. Loved Michaelangelo's tomb too.
Saw the Jewish temple, highly fortified but a beautiful building. Had to sit for a while so I had a manicure, got Chianti colored nails.
Next day, saw "David." My jaw dropped, it had me breathless even after countless times seeing the image. Standing in front and walking around it is worth it.
 |
| From Florence Sept 2010 |
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
A Jew in Vienna
Before I came to Austria, I looked at the Jewish community. I wondered if a Jew, me, would be comfortable in Vienna. I came with prejudices. My father would not buy a German car. My experience with the German accent was American movies, Nazis and evil. In my mind, I would sometimes flinch, hearing German. So could I, would I, be welcome, happy here?
The answer is yes and no.
Yes, life is good in Vienna. It is easy to get around. Good health care is provided. It is amazingly clean and beautiful!
I long ago gave up the “not buying German products” and I’ve visited Germany a few times. I’m glad to be able to say that I like the German language much more now. I have so many pleasant interactions in German. I think of the lady that I buy flowers from, the delightful German teachers at school and the sounds of life around, counting in games, acquiring vocabulary, using German myself.
Which brings me to Yiddish. I make many connections. I can hear my dad say “noch mal”, again. My mom say inga pathchin, messed up. The word for salmon in German is lachs, pronounced lox.
It is okay to be Jewish here but it isn’t okay to mention it too much. When I occasionally mention a Yiddish word, no one asks how much Yiddish I speak or how I know it or even if I am Jewish, a fair assumption. It simply isn’t talked about, that is the feeling I get.
There are reminders of the Jews that lived here. Squares, about envelope size, are on the streets and on buildings with the names and dates of the people that lived there. Not many people know of them or notice them. In this city of grandeur, they have no grandeur.
There is a memorial in the old Jewish section that I really like. It is a bare library.
I have visited the Jewish Museums and find them sad and troubling. The top floor of the Jewish museum is crowded with Jewish stuff, menorahs, torah covers, that nobody claimed?
In the audio guide it says that the Jewish community was dissolved. That word troubles me, sugar dissolves, people don’t. People were murdered. Berlin uses the word murder in their Jewish museum. Austria doesn’t include, from 1938 onwards as their history, since they were annexed by Germany, Anschluss. My trouble with that, I think a person, country, people don’t heal unless they deal with the past.
Austria is a contradiction in many ways. They had a Jewish Chancellor, Bruno Kreisky, for many years. They also didn’t pay reparations until 1995.
So, is it comfortable to be a Jew in Vienna? For the most part, yes, there are probably no more Nazis here than in California.
The answer is yes and no.
Yes, life is good in Vienna. It is easy to get around. Good health care is provided. It is amazingly clean and beautiful!
I long ago gave up the “not buying German products” and I’ve visited Germany a few times. I’m glad to be able to say that I like the German language much more now. I have so many pleasant interactions in German. I think of the lady that I buy flowers from, the delightful German teachers at school and the sounds of life around, counting in games, acquiring vocabulary, using German myself.
Which brings me to Yiddish. I make many connections. I can hear my dad say “noch mal”, again. My mom say inga pathchin, messed up. The word for salmon in German is lachs, pronounced lox.
It is okay to be Jewish here but it isn’t okay to mention it too much. When I occasionally mention a Yiddish word, no one asks how much Yiddish I speak or how I know it or even if I am Jewish, a fair assumption. It simply isn’t talked about, that is the feeling I get.
There are reminders of the Jews that lived here. Squares, about envelope size, are on the streets and on buildings with the names and dates of the people that lived there. Not many people know of them or notice them. In this city of grandeur, they have no grandeur.
There is a memorial in the old Jewish section that I really like. It is a bare library.
I have visited the Jewish Museums and find them sad and troubling. The top floor of the Jewish museum is crowded with Jewish stuff, menorahs, torah covers, that nobody claimed?
In the audio guide it says that the Jewish community was dissolved. That word troubles me, sugar dissolves, people don’t. People were murdered. Berlin uses the word murder in their Jewish museum. Austria doesn’t include, from 1938 onwards as their history, since they were annexed by Germany, Anschluss. My trouble with that, I think a person, country, people don’t heal unless they deal with the past.
Austria is a contradiction in many ways. They had a Jewish Chancellor, Bruno Kreisky, for many years. They also didn’t pay reparations until 1995.
So, is it comfortable to be a Jew in Vienna? For the most part, yes, there are probably no more Nazis here than in California.
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Onward, Pjelasic Peninsula and Vela Luka, Korcula
After breakfast, I drove to the Pjelgasic Peninsula, reminds me of Point Reyes, with grape vines. It felt like home, grapes ripening, stopped at one small winery and tasted. Checked on the ferry times in Orebic and then drove to Loviste, the end of the peninsula.Pansion Tamaris, swim before dinner, lobster salad at Konoba Barsa. fresh fish!
Ferry to Korcula, skipped the historic town, still too hot and crowded. Drove the length of the island again. Lunch in Brato, Zlinke restaureant, green pasta with shrimp, ancient building, delicious food and wine. Vela Luka staying with Marita and family in an A/C sobe. Local wine makers and olive oil producers, as well as hosts. Delightful!, First time they took a dog!
Wanted to go to Hvar, but can't from here, with my car. Heading home, a ferry to Split and then hit the highway.
Dubrovnik and around, July 16, 17, 18,
Exquisite breakfast, best croissants I've had outside of France.
Drove to the old city, gorgeous,hot and crowded. I would love to go back and walk the city walls but not now, when it is over 90. City has charm and friendly too.
Napped and walked the nearby promenade for an ice cream in the evening.
July 18, spent the day swimming at the hotel.
Road to Dubrovnik July 15
For my Napa driveway?
Off the ferry in Split, from Vis, headed south. I had one night before my reservations in Dubrovnik. That stretch of coast is spectacular. Drove until I found a small town, the coast is packed with places to stay, but I tried for something simpler,Blace. Lots of families, (South Haven of Croatia) but quiet, low key, calm and beautiful. Rooms were not abundant. 15 euro room, shared porch/terrace with lieutenant colonel, Mercedes and her husband and son, from Bosnia. Mercedes' English is excellent. she went to Monterey language institute. It's hot! I'm sitting having coffee at 9:30 am and sweating. Good to hang out and good conversations. On to Dubrovnik with their recommendations.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Vis, Croatian Island, Mid Dalmatia coast
Took the 3pm ferry to Vis. Drove to the other end and back, about 10km. Dinner at Vista Klub, seaside, yummy lamb. Found Milna, about 10pm, am overcharged but this place is gorgeous. I'm sitting on a balcony in the middle of the Adriatic. My view is two small islands.
First day here, I shopped for food and rested. Watched Star trek, took an afternoon swim at the rocky beach. The proprietor, Antonia came by with a plate of salted fish with tomatoes and green peppers, drizzled with olive oil. Incredibly good! The only thing missing was the wine.
Next day I went to get wine. First a dip in the sea at the sandy beach.
Pulled into a winery. Found a table with 4 men and two woman. One of the men, cute Belgian journalist, offered to translate. Tried red wine, crno, prosek, port like and a grappa. Bought the first two for 100 kunas. The closure is the old bottle cap type.
Then I drove into Komiza, to check on grotto tour, internet cafe and booked a hotel in Dubrovnik. Finding a hotel at night with a dog in a new city is not always fun.
Stopped in what I thought was a winery but really was a restaurant and asked for both red and white wine. They looked at me funny. Took a dip at Razunac beach before heading "home" to Uskok. It has cooled down tonight. It is beautiful, sitting by the sea, noisy cicadas, voices carrying from the village but calm. Being on vacation is great!
First day here, I shopped for food and rested. Watched Star trek, took an afternoon swim at the rocky beach. The proprietor, Antonia came by with a plate of salted fish with tomatoes and green peppers, drizzled with olive oil. Incredibly good! The only thing missing was the wine.
Next day I went to get wine. First a dip in the sea at the sandy beach.
Pulled into a winery. Found a table with 4 men and two woman. One of the men, cute Belgian journalist, offered to translate. Tried red wine, crno, prosek, port like and a grappa. Bought the first two for 100 kunas. The closure is the old bottle cap type.
Then I drove into Komiza, to check on grotto tour, internet cafe and booked a hotel in Dubrovnik. Finding a hotel at night with a dog in a new city is not always fun.
Stopped in what I thought was a winery but really was a restaurant and asked for both red and white wine. They looked at me funny. Took a dip at Razunac beach before heading "home" to Uskok. It has cooled down tonight. It is beautiful, sitting by the sea, noisy cicadas, voices carrying from the village but calm. Being on vacation is great!
Split July 11
Zadar and Skradin July 8, 9 10
Drove to Zadar, interesting sea organ, terrible lasagna lunch and a delightful pet shop owner recommended Skradin. (I hope he enjoys his trip to CA for his niece's wedding in Sacramento!)
I could stay here for a while. Hot, by a lake, kids, but not too many. Water is cool, calm, gravelly bottom, quite refreshing. Blue skies, yachts, swans, ten right in the middle of the lake in front of me. Boats leave here for the national park. Krka. Thanks to the nice man in the pet shop, I have an amazing room with a/c, and internet for about 20 euros. There are 3 beds, a stove and refrig and a warm friendly English speaking waiter/host, Denis, the best.
July 4th, 5,6 Plitvice Jezero, Croatia
Jen and I don't get moving early and I drive back roads. It took us 9 hours to get to Plitvice Lakes. We had an amazing storm along the way. I pulled off because I couldn't see to drive. It only lasted about half an hour. Then windy roads until dark. Driving with no civilization in sight. It was 9 or 10 before we finally stopped at a "sobe" room. We were only 10km from the park.
Checked into the Bellevue, one of only 2 hotels, the fancy one wouldn't take a dog.
The park/lakes are beautiful but very controlled. There are 2 main walks, along wooden pathways, (beware bifocal wearers, the steps are invisible). Boat loads of people more along the 2 1/2 hour path, took me 3 but I waited until everyone had gone ahead.
The next day Jen left and I took the boat across the lake to the other path. but I didn't do the walk on that side. Drove to Pog Island, stopped in Graca for coffee and tried to visit the caves, but couldn't. The woman at the coffee shop gave me a photo taken in the cave. Beautiful picture, warm hospitality and a connection made, without much English.
Pog is small cute, island town. Hotel Belvedre, last room was a suite with a huge balcony, 70 euros. I took it for two nights. Hung out at the small pool with three Brits. Pool in the morning, shopping in the afternoon, water shoes, two pair of earrings, blue blouse and pizza.
Checked into the Bellevue, one of only 2 hotels, the fancy one wouldn't take a dog.
The park/lakes are beautiful but very controlled. There are 2 main walks, along wooden pathways, (beware bifocal wearers, the steps are invisible). Boat loads of people more along the 2 1/2 hour path, took me 3 but I waited until everyone had gone ahead.
The next day Jen left and I took the boat across the lake to the other path. but I didn't do the walk on that side. Drove to Pog Island, stopped in Graca for coffee and tried to visit the caves, but couldn't. The woman at the coffee shop gave me a photo taken in the cave. Beautiful picture, warm hospitality and a connection made, without much English.
Pog is small cute, island town. Hotel Belvedre, last room was a suite with a huge balcony, 70 euros. I took it for two nights. Hung out at the small pool with three Brits. Pool in the morning, shopping in the afternoon, water shoes, two pair of earrings, blue blouse and pizza.
July 2, 3, Lake Bled
Hot! Nothing but an air conditioned room will do. 60 euros a night, I love Best Western, coffee in the room, a terrace, yummy bruscheta with artichokes and cheese.
Walked around Lake Bled, 6km. Went swimming three times along the way fun!
Walked around Lake Bled, 6km. Went swimming three times along the way fun!
July 1st
Drove to Ljubljana, the town of three bridges, a castle on the hill top. A great walking town, lively, picturesque. Didn't get to the library, supposed to be special. I may have to go back.
Friday, July 16, 2010
Summer 2010
Even though this blog is called Odetoaustria, I post mostly about my trips outside. So this is more like, my two years at VIS and my adventures.
Took off about noon, stopped at a Hundertwasser rest stop grill. George, my GPS system, quit on us and I got lost. Not a news flash. We wound up in a spa town called, Rogaška Slatina. Delightful spa town, with disgusting tasting water, heavy on magnesium. It is supposed to clean you out, we got on the road instead.
Thursday, April 15, 2010
April in Morocco
We discovered thuya, a wood native to the region, from which beautiful items are made. We also discovered argan, a tree from which many things are made. We took an early, 9am. bus to Marakkeh, which broke down at 10 am. We had a lovely two hour roadside wait for a replacement bus. We were next to a field with olive and argan trees. Since we had no schedule, it was not a bad day.
We arrived in Marrakesh in the late afternoon.
Marakkech is intense, too intense for me. It is also very dirty and crowded, with mopeds and cars in the medina. We paid a visit to "the square" and it is a site to behold. We had ice cream for dinner. The next day we visited Majorelle Gardens that Yves St. Laurent and someone redid, a number of years ago. Lunched in the new city and bought English language books and beautiful jewelry. Dinner in the riad was a disappointment food wise, but picturesque and peaceful. Riad Nabila was wonderful but the location was too far away from the center.
We boarded a train this morning and spent seven hours traveling to Fez. I'm glad we got to see this much of the country. The ride from Rabat to Fez is beautiful. Checked into another beautiful riad,enormous room with a great view from the roof. I've fallen in love with Fez already, much cleaner and feels more comfortable. Less hassles,(not all gone)on the streets. Guides are offical and taxis are metered. The streets are too narrow for motor vehicles. Really it is the air that has captured me, the mountains are around us, there are vistas everywhere. Tonight as I sit here with a sweater it is quiet. The call to prayer at seven was amazing. It had power. I later learned there are over 300 mosques here. The city glows behind me.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Winter in Paris 2010
I am such a lucky person! I just returned from a week in Paris with my sister Serene and cousin, Anita. We had a blast, with some significant ups and downs. I was basically sick when I arrived on Saturday and put a good face on it for Sunday and Monday. Sunday was Ile St. Louis and Monday, I stayed home when they went out for dinner. Tuesday I finally went to the doctor, a cab ride to the American Hospital because it made me feel better than the closer French ones. I was diagnosed with bronchitis and sinutis. Wednesday. had a great day reading, U is for Undertow, warm and cozy in our Paris apartment. One of our favorite restaurants was directly downstairs. Good coffee, soup, wine, port, croissants you can only get in Paris. Thursday, we had a great day walking and shopping$$$ in St. Germain en Laye, a suburb of Paris. That ended with an encounter with the Chalelet Metro station, or something. We couldn’t get out. It was surreal. Friday morning I went down for breakfast, then came upstairs and Serene made me an appointment for a dentist, back to the American Hospital. I took a cab to the hospital and a very nice dentist relieved the pain of an abscessed tooth and made me an appointment for a root canal. I walked Paris for a couple of hours, having coffee and buying more antibiotics. At six that night, I was finished. Serene and Anita picked me up. We took a cab home and I went to bed. I was fine the next day. A bit sore but that didn’t stop me from buying a new blue backpack, a 60th birthday present for Serene, earrings, black pants, a new top. Serene bought me a great blue hat to go with my new coat and backpack. Our last night, we had pizza and took a cab ride to Sacre Coeur and to the Eiffel Tour and then home.
I am lucky to have wonderful people in my life. I am incredibly lucky to be able to travel like I do. I am lucky to have money for these emergencies. I can afford health care, that is huge.
Back at work tomorrow, but good times ahead.
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Christmas in Azores
December 21st.
Angra de Heroismo
Hamburger in a café, then fried sugary, flat donut. Then I wandered through the city, looking for the Municipal Gardens. I would up at the Memorial with great vistas and down through the gardens. I went back by way of the fort and was surprised to find a sign with Hebrew writing. I happened upon the Jewish Cemetery. Then back to the hotel for a good dinner and nights rest. Fly to Pico tomorrow.
Pico
December 22,23, 24, 25, 26.
I am staying in a basalt house in Pico. It is quiet, except for the humming refrigerator. It is cold and beautiful. Spent the morning drive the coast, old winery in Lajido, to the port Madalena. I caught the 13:45 boat to Horta on Faial Island. There was a rainbow as we left. The ride was rocky, but I could be outside and it only takes half an hour. In Horta I got a map at the tourist office and started walking. Lunch in a Chinese restaurant, coffee and a palmeira at 4, back to the boat by 5 for 17:15 boat back. The ride back was like a roller coaster. I hate roller coasters. The rain started as we took off and the ride back was thankfully just a half hour too. Guess I wouldn’t make it on the open seas.
Next day, I drove around the island. Too many awesome wave photos but I kept trying to capture the turquoise. Lunch in Lajes, good pizza, all of the whale museums are closed and most shops and restaurants too. I expected Christmas to be like that. I had planned to just walk tomorrow. I hear the rain is not going to stop. So I’m in the middle of the Atlantic but warm and dry in my cute little house.
Back to Angra, rented a car and drove around the island of Terceira. Looked at the Air Force base, great location. Had a great lunch at a restaurant called Caneta. Green, and lovely and rainy. Hotel in Praia de Vitoria, pouring rain from 6pm on. After 4 hours in the airport the next day, our flight was canceled. They put us up in a nice hotel in Angra and we got an extra day, the rain stopped in the afternoon. Got out and made all my connections the next day. Even had my luggage at the end! A restful and beautiful trip.
Angra de Heroismo
Hamburger in a café, then fried sugary, flat donut. Then I wandered through the city, looking for the Municipal Gardens. I would up at the Memorial with great vistas and down through the gardens. I went back by way of the fort and was surprised to find a sign with Hebrew writing. I happened upon the Jewish Cemetery. Then back to the hotel for a good dinner and nights rest. Fly to Pico tomorrow.
Pico
December 22,23, 24, 25, 26.
I am staying in a basalt house in Pico. It is quiet, except for the humming refrigerator. It is cold and beautiful. Spent the morning drive the coast, old winery in Lajido, to the port Madalena. I caught the 13:45 boat to Horta on Faial Island. There was a rainbow as we left. The ride was rocky, but I could be outside and it only takes half an hour. In Horta I got a map at the tourist office and started walking. Lunch in a Chinese restaurant, coffee and a palmeira at 4, back to the boat by 5 for 17:15 boat back. The ride back was like a roller coaster. I hate roller coasters. The rain started as we took off and the ride back was thankfully just a half hour too. Guess I wouldn’t make it on the open seas.
Next day, I drove around the island. Too many awesome wave photos but I kept trying to capture the turquoise. Lunch in Lajes, good pizza, all of the whale museums are closed and most shops and restaurants too. I expected Christmas to be like that. I had planned to just walk tomorrow. I hear the rain is not going to stop. So I’m in the middle of the Atlantic but warm and dry in my cute little house.
Back to Angra, rented a car and drove around the island of Terceira. Looked at the Air Force base, great location. Had a great lunch at a restaurant called Caneta. Green, and lovely and rainy. Hotel in Praia de Vitoria, pouring rain from 6pm on. After 4 hours in the airport the next day, our flight was canceled. They put us up in a nice hotel in Angra and we got an extra day, the rain stopped in the afternoon. Got out and made all my connections the next day. Even had my luggage at the end! A restful and beautiful trip.
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