Thursday, April 15, 2010

April in Morocco

I'm on a rooftop in Fez. It is about 10 pm. I just finished dinner, pastille de pigeon. It is Tuesday night, we have now been in Morocoo for five days. What I saw of Casblanca was a big, dirty city. We didn't plan to stay there. We arrived at night, had pizza for dinner and left the next morning. We boarded a bus to Essaouira. Four hours in a comfy bus to a sweet, seaside town. Our riad was comfortable and cute, the green room, The people were lovely at Dar Liouba. The town was relaxed souk with old Portuguese battlements.

We discovered thuya, a wood native to the region, from which beautiful items are made. We also discovered argan, a tree from which many things are made. We took an early, 9am. bus to Marakkeh, which broke down at 10 am. We had a lovely two hour roadside wait for a replacement bus. We were next to a field with olive and argan trees. Since we had no schedule, it was not a bad day.


We arrived in Marrakesh in the late afternoon.
Marakkech is intense, too intense for me. It is also very dirty and crowded, with mopeds and cars in the medina. We paid a visit to "the square" and it is a site to behold. We had ice cream for dinner. The next day we visited Majorelle Gardens that Yves St. Laurent and someone redid, a number of years ago. Lunched in the new city and bought English language books and beautiful jewelry. Dinner in the riad was a disappointment food wise, but picturesque and peaceful. Riad Nabila was wonderful but the location was too far away from the center.

We boarded a train this morning and spent seven hours traveling to Fez. I'm glad we got to see this much of the country. The ride from Rabat to Fez is beautiful. Checked into another beautiful riad,enormous room with a great view from the roof. I've fallen in love with Fez already, much cleaner and feels more comfortable. Less hassles,(not all gone)on the streets. Guides are offical and taxis are metered. The streets are too narrow for motor vehicles. Really it is the air that has captured me, the mountains are around us, there are vistas everywhere. Tonight as I sit here with a sweater it is quiet. The call to prayer at seven was amazing. It had power. I later learned there are over 300 mosques here. The city glows behind me.